Stepping into the realm of culinary adventure in the frozen wilderness of Antarctica, I, a seasoned chef, embarked on a journey that few have dared. My story begins with a childhood dream, a desire to confront the vastness of the world, and a near-miss with the British Antarctic Survey (BAS). Instead, I found myself in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants, hotels, and even a school, until the call of the ice beckoned me.
In 2016, I took a sabbatical and finally joined BAS as a chef for the summer. Five years later, I returned for the winter, and last year, I became the organization's full-time catering manager. I was ready for the challenge. Now, I oversee the catering across BAS's five Antarctic stations, where research is conducted and staff reside. Each year, I spend three months in this icy paradise, and the rest of the time, I work at BAS's headquarters in Cambridge.
At our main hub, Rothera, we have four chefs in the summer. Our day starts with baking bread, consuming around 12kg of bread mix daily during peak season. We serve breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the traditional 'smoko' at 10 am. It's a hearty meal of bacon rolls, beans, sausages, tomatoes, and soups, providing 5,000 calories a day, twice what a grown man typically needs due to the extreme cold and physical activity.
Our kitchen is a canteen, not a Michelin-starred restaurant, but we take pride in our meals. With a predominantly British staff, we cook familiar dishes like toad in the hole, shepherd's pie, fish and chips, curries, and a roast every Sunday. On Saturdays, we indulge in restaurant-style dining with tablecloths and candles, often with a theme.
Despite the limited options, we have a good range of products. The food is frozen upon arrival, requiring thawing, which affects taste. Meat, fish, and dairy maintain quality, but fruits and vegetables lose their texture and crunch. We manage our supplies carefully, with only one food delivery per year at Rothera. I order bacon and sausages by the tonne, filling walls with chopped tomatoes and tins of potatoes and basics. Dry food occupies four 20ft-long shipping containers, and frozen goods fill another one or two similar-sized freezers.
Our kitchen is professional, and you'd never guess you're in Antarctica unless you look out the window. We have a breathtaking view of icebergs, sea, and mountains. The continent is barren, with only emperor penguins in sight, but the peninsula teems with wildlife: penguins, seals, and whales. Birds like skuas, albatrosses, and petrels add to the vibrant ecosystem.
The temperatures are a stark contrast, reaching -40C in the winter on the ice shelf. BAS provides a kit bag with essentials and training on self-care in the cold. The key is to wear the right gear, avoid getting wet, eat fatty and sugary foods, and stay active. Being there shifts priorities, making one realize the value of human connections over material possessions.
However, returning to the real world can be challenging. I often question if I fit into that world anymore. Being in Antarctica reminds me of the privilege of my life and the importance of enjoying every moment. As told to Emma Magnus, my story is a testament to the unique experiences that await those who dare to explore the unknown.
